Young People Need Power

Spot on! In any case, I’ve now retrofitted my TPH125 with a USB port - not long after I got it. As part of a repair to the speedometer cable and the replacement of a few control switches on the handlebars, the entire fairing had to come off anyway. So why not kill two - no, three - birds with one stone and install that long-awaited outlet while I was at it?

1. Which outlet?!#

After a long search, I found a model on Amazon that’s offered by various sellers. Presumably, though, they all come from the same Chinese factory… In any case, it met (almost) all my requirements and preferences:

Fast-charging support with a maximum power of 36W, which isn’t too high - so you can even charge your smartphone without the engine running. It also has multiple ports, in case your GPS and cell phone run out of battery. It also includes not only USB-A ports, but both USB-A and USB-C - and two of each. A small flap protects the ports from splashes - especially useful on rainy days! And most importantly: it has to be flat. That is why I immediately ruled out all models that use long, cylindrical modules that slide into a standard faceplate (for standard [U.S.] automotive power outlets).

The only downside: it doesn’t support bidirectional charging, which means you can’t maintain the battery using this outlet in the winter. For me, however, this is completely manageable, since it’s currently my only motorized vehicle.

2. Installation#

First, you need to cut a hole in the seat compartment. Fortunately, this is done fairly quickly with a jigsaw and a spiral-toothed blade. After refining the edges with a file and finally sanding them smooth, the result is impressive:

Since the mounting option provided by the charger’s manufacturer didn’t quite fit my setup, I had to design a small adapter plate, which I was able to produce quickly using a 3D printer. It accommodates two M3 nuts and also features a rail for a fuse holder.

To ensure the finished installation looks perfect from the inside as well, I needed a cover plate - which I was also able to 3D-print quickly.

3. Wiring#

The wiring was straightforward - because I decided not to connect it to the positive ignition terminal behind the ignition switch (which might have required running a cable from the handlebars to the terminal), and instead connected it directly to the battery - of course, with a fuse and a switch to prevent the battery from draining due to leakage currents when the bike is parked for extended periods.

4. Conclusion#

The outlet takes up very little space, is almost invisible when not in use, and has worked very reliably so far.

A good Investment!