+++
title = 'Young People Need Power'
date = 2026-08-31T20:00:00+02:00
draft = false
toc = true
cover = 'cover.jpg'
+++


Spot on! In any case, I've now retrofitted my TPH125 with a USB port - not long after I got it. As part of a repair to the speedometer cable and the replacement of a few control switches on the handlebars, the entire fairing had to come off anyway. So why not kill two - no, three - birds with one stone and install that long-awaited outlet while I was at it? 

<!--more-->


## 1. Which outlet?!

After a long search, I found a model on Amazon that's offered by various sellers. Presumably, though, they all come from the same Chinese factory... In any case, it met (almost) all my requirements and preferences: 

Fast-charging support with a maximum power of 36W, which isn't too high - so you can even charge your smartphone without the engine running. It also has multiple ports, in case your GPS and cell phone run out of battery. It also includes not only USB-A ports, but both USB-A and USB-C - and two of each. A small flap protects the ports from splashes - especially useful on rainy days! And most importantly: it has to be flat. That is why we immediately ruled out all models that use long, cylindrical modules that slide into a standard faceplate (for standard [U.S.] automotive power outlets). 

The only downside: it doesn't support bidirectional charging, which means you can't maintain the battery using this outlet in the winter. For me, however, this is completely manageable, since it's currently my only motorized vehicle.


## 2. Installation

First, you need to cut a hole in the seat compartment. Fortunately, this is done fairly quickly with a jigsaw and a spiral-toothed blade. After refining the edges with a file and finally sanding them smooth, the result is impressive: 

{{< figure src="loch-aussen.jpg" alt="This image shows the removed seat compartment of a TPH125 with the cut-out hole for the USB port, viewed from the outside..." caption="The hole from the outside...">}}

{{< figure src="loch-innen.jpg" alt="... and from the inside!" caption="... and from the inside!" >}}

Since the mounting option provided by the charger's manufacturer didn't quite fit my setup, I had to design a small adapter plate, which I was able to produce quickly using a 3D printer. It accommodates two M3 nuts and also features a rail for a fuse holder.

![The adapter plate](back-panel-with-fuseholder.png)

To ensure the finished installation looks perfect from the inside as well, I needed a cover plate - which I was also able to 3D-print quickly.

![The front cover for the interior](front-cover.png)


## Wiring

The wiring was straightforward - because I decided not to connect it to the positive ignition terminal behind the ignition switch (which might have required running a cable from the handlebars to the terminal), and instead connected it directly to the battery - of course, with a fuse and a switch to prevent the battery from draining due to leakage currents when the bike is parked for extended periods.

{{< figure src="fuse-holder.jpg" alt="Shown here is a flying fuse holder with a 5A automotive fuse, attached to the back of the outlet." caption="The flying fuse has been tamed." >}}

{{< figure src="battery-connection.jpg" alt="The battery, which now has two terminals." caption="The battery, which now has two terminals." >}}


## Conclusion

The outlet takes up very little space, is almost invisible when not in use, and has worked very reliably so far. 

![A helmet is in the helmet compartment, and a cable is plugged into the open USB outlet.](conclusion.jpg)

A good Investment!