Some minor changes with broken translations, missing links, inconsequent naming systems, etc.
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title = 'Verbesserung des UV-Belichters'
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date = 2026-04-10T18:09:20+02:00
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cover = 'cover.png'
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title = 'Verbesserung des UV-Belichters'
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date = 2026-04-10T18:09:20+02:00
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lastmod = 2026-09-09T20:00:00+02:00
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toc = true
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cover = 'cover.png'
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## Einleitung {id=introduction}
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Nach längerer Zeit mit über 40 Minuten Belichtungszeit bei der Platinenherstellung mit dem [UV-Belichter Marke Eigenbau]({{< ref "posts/2025/04/diy-uv-pcb-exposure-unit.md" >}}) wurde es nun Zeit für das schon angekündigte Upgrade. Ziel war die Verdopplung der Anzahl der LEDs von 48 auf 96. Zum einen soll dadurch eine homogenere Abdeckung der Belichtungsfläche erzielt werden, zum anderen natürlich auch schnellere Belichtungszeiten.
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<!--more-->
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## 1. Platinenprobleme {id=problems}
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@@ -39,4 +42,8 @@ Das Ergebnis kann sich sehen lassen - man kann nun fast keine einzelnen Lichtkeg
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{{< figure src="before-after_homogenity.jpg" alt="Vorher-Nachher-Bild der Ausleuchtung: Links sehr homogen, rechts noch einzelne Lichtkgeel erkennbar" caption="Links: neue Trägerplatine (48 LEDs); rechts: alte Trägerplatine (24 LEDs)" >}}
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Im Bild wurde auf die Glasscheibe ein Papier gelegt, um die Ausleuchtung der Fläche festzustellen. Rechts wurde die alte (24 LEDs), links eine neue Trägerplatine (48 LEDs) eingebaut.
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Die neuen Belichtungszeiten konnten aufgrund von Zeitmangel nicht genau festgestellt werden, werden sich jedoch im Bereich um 15-20 Minuten bewegen.
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Die neuen Belichtungszeiten konnten aufgrund von Zeitmangel nicht genau festgestellt werden, werden sich jedoch im Bereich um 15-20 Minuten bewegen.
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---
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Update vom 09. September: Die Kalibrierung mittels Belichtungsreihe wurde nun durchgeführt, und ein [entsprechender Artikel]({{< ref "posts/2026/09/exposure-unit-upgrade-test.md" >}}) veröffentlicht!
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title = 'Upgrading the UV Exposure Unit'
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date = 2026-04-10T18:09:20+02:00
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lastmod = 2026-09-09T20:00:00+02:00
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draft = false
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toc = true
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cover = 'cover.png'
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@@ -11,6 +12,8 @@ cover = 'cover.png'
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After a long period of using the [unit]({{< ref "posts/2025/04/diy-uv-pcb-exposure-unit.md" >}}) with exposure times exceeding 40 minutes in PCB manufacturing, it was finally time for the previously announced upgrade. The goal was to double the number of LEDs from 48 to 96. This is intended to achieve more uniform coverage of the exposure area, as well as, of course, shorter exposure times.
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<!--more-->
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## 1. PCB Problems {id=problems}
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@@ -39,4 +42,8 @@ The result is impressive - you can now barely see any individual light cones at
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{{< figure src="before-after_homogenity.jpg" alt="Before-and-after image of the illumination: Very uniform on the left, individual light cones still visible on the right" caption="Left: new (48x) LED board; right: old (24x) LED board" >}}
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In the image, a piece of paper was placed on the glass pane to determine the illumination of the surface. The old circuit board (24 LEDs) was installed on the right, and a new one (48 LEDs) on the left.
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The new exposure times could not be determined precisely due to time constraints, but they will be in the range of 15-20 minutes.
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The new exposure times could not be determined precisely due to time constraints, but they will be in the range of 15-20 minutes.
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---
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Update from September 9: Calibration using an exposure bracketing series has now been completed, and a [related article]({{< ref "posts/2026/09/exposure-unit-upgrade-test.md" >}}) has been published!
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@@ -25,9 +25,9 @@ Der einzige Wermutstropfen: keine Zwei-Wege-Ladeunterstützung, d.h. im Winter k
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Zunächst muss also ein Loch ins Sitzfach. Mit Laubsäge und spiralgedrehtem Sägeblatt zum Glück recht schnell erledigt. Nachgefeinert mit der Feile und zum Schluss noch glattgeschliffen, lässt sich das Ergebnis sehen:
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{{< figure src="loch-aussen.jpg" alt="Dieses Bild zeigt das ausgebaute Sitzfach einer TPH125 mit dem gesägten Loch für die USB-Steckdose von aussen..." caption="Das Loch von außen..." >}}
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{{< figure src="hole-outside.jpg" alt="Dieses Bild zeigt das ausgebaute Sitzfach einer TPH125 mit dem gesägten Loch für die USB-Steckdose von aussen..." caption="Das Loch von außen..." >}}
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{{< figure src="loch-innen.jpg" alt="... und von innen!" caption="...und von innen!" >}}
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{{< figure src="hole-inside.jpg" alt="... und von innen!" caption="...und von innen!" >}}
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Da nun die Montagevariante, die der Hersteller des Laders vorgesehen hat, nicht so recht zu meinen Umständen passt, musste ich eine kleine Adapterplatte designen, welche dank 3D-Drucker auch schnell gefertigt war. Diese nimmt zwei M3-Muttern auf und hat zudem eine Schiene für einen Sicherungshalter.
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@@ -44,13 +44,13 @@ Die Verkabelung gestaltete sich leicht - denn ich verzichtete auf einen Anschlus
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{{< figure src="fuse-holder.jpg" alt="Zu sehen ist ein fliegender Sicherungshalter mit 5A-KfZ-Sicherung, an der Rückseite der Steckdose angebracht." caption="Die fliegende Sicherung ist gebändigt." >}}
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{{< figure src="battery-connection.jpg" alt="Die Batterie mit nunmehr zwei Anschlussklemmen." caption="Die Batterie mit nunmehr zwei Anschlussklemmen." >}}
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{{< figure src="battery-connection.jpg" alt="Die Batterie mit nunmehr je zwei Anschlussklemmen pro Pol." caption="Die Batterie mit nunmehr je zwei Anschlussklemmen pro Pol." >}}
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## 4. Ergebnis
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Die Steckdose nimmt wenig Platz weg, verschwindet bei Nichtbenutzung fast und tut ihren Dienst bisher sehr zuverlässig.
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Eine gute Investition!
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@@ -16,7 +16,7 @@ Spot on! In any case, I've now retrofitted my TPH125 with a USB port - not long
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After a long search, I found a model on Amazon that's offered by various sellers. Presumably, though, they all come from the same Chinese factory... In any case, it met (almost) all my requirements and preferences:
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Fast-charging support with a maximum power of 36W, which isn't too high - so you can even charge your smartphone without the engine running. It also has multiple ports, in case your GPS and cell phone run out of battery. It also includes not only USB-A ports, but both USB-A and USB-C - and two of each. A small flap protects the ports from splashes - especially useful on rainy days! And most importantly: it has to be flat. That is why we immediately ruled out all models that use long, cylindrical modules that slide into a standard faceplate (for standard [U.S.] automotive power outlets).
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Fast-charging support with a maximum power of 36W, which isn't too high - so you can even charge your smartphone without the engine running. It also has multiple ports, in case your GPS and cell phone run out of battery. It also includes not only USB-A ports, but both USB-A and USB-C - and two of each. A small flap protects the ports from splashes - especially useful on rainy days! And most importantly: it has to be flat. That is why I immediately ruled out all models that use long, cylindrical modules that slide into a standard faceplate (for standard [U.S.] automotive power outlets).
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The only downside: it doesn't support bidirectional charging, which means you can't maintain the battery using this outlet in the winter. For me, however, this is completely manageable, since it's currently my only motorized vehicle.
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@@ -25,9 +25,9 @@ The only downside: it doesn't support bidirectional charging, which means you ca
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First, you need to cut a hole in the seat compartment. Fortunately, this is done fairly quickly with a jigsaw and a spiral-toothed blade. After refining the edges with a file and finally sanding them smooth, the result is impressive:
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{{< figure src="loch-aussen.jpg" alt="This image shows the removed seat compartment of a TPH125 with the cut-out hole for the USB port, viewed from the outside..." caption="The hole from the outside...">}}
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{{< figure src="hole-outside.jpg" alt="This image shows the removed seat compartment of a TPH125 with the cut-out hole for the USB port, viewed from the outside..." caption="The hole from the outside...">}}
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{{< figure src="loch-innen.jpg" alt="... and from the inside!" caption="... and from the inside!" >}}
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{{< figure src="hole-inside.jpg" alt="... and from the inside!" caption="... and from the inside!" >}}
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Since the mounting option provided by the charger's manufacturer didn't quite fit my setup, I had to design a small adapter plate, which I was able to produce quickly using a 3D printer. It accommodates two M3 nuts and also features a rail for a fuse holder.
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@@ -44,13 +44,13 @@ The wiring was straightforward - because I decided not to connect it to the posi
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{{< figure src="fuse-holder.jpg" alt="Shown here is a flying fuse holder with a 5A automotive fuse, attached to the back of the outlet." caption="The flying fuse has been tamed." >}}
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{{< figure src="battery-connection.jpg" alt="The battery, which now has two terminals." caption="The battery, which now has two terminals." >}}
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{{< figure src="battery-connection.jpg" alt="The battery, which now has two terminals per pole." caption="The battery, which now has two terminals per pole." >}}
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## 4. Conclusion
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The outlet takes up very little space, is almost invisible when not in use, and has worked very reliably so far.
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A good Investment!
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